(Patrick Calefato, published in La Gazzetta del Mezzogiorno of 31/12/2010)
Marchionne will also be pleased with the agreement signed in defiance of Mirafiori Forty years of unity and union labor rights in Italy, but in terms of its minimal style and always the same blue sweater shortness of breath. In these early '10s, are just the suits and work clothes worn the chips from all over the world to inspire a fashion impact that was christened with the English expression "workwear", which means very trivially "Work clothes". A fashion that actually fashion, fleeting and superficial sense, it is not, because it consists of clothes that do not age and are not related to current trends, clothes that protect because they are made of heat resistant materials, water, cold clothes and cutting bill of "male", but that dress is comfortable with women than men.
It was the great tailor to come to Japan Yohji Yamamoto first inspired, since the 80's, from the clothes of the "men of the twentieth century" by Auguste Sander photographed. Yamamoto was fascinated by the pictures that the photographer had collected German men and women in their work clothes: not fashionable clothes, no clothes "by chance", but functional clothing to a task, a task, a scan time of day and life. And 'now the same relationship to time and their place in the world that research, after having lost it in the triumph of insecurity. Paradoxically, the more work is missing, it breaks up, disappearing in, the more it reinforces the idea of \u200b\u200ba container that calls the body instead of the materiality of the work, opera, crafts, clothing that expresses authenticity and strength.
adapt the companies in the casual, big brands and some designer attentive, but often companies have specialized in working clothes to embark on a larger output. The German acronym, for example, born since the 90s with the idea of \u200b\u200bunifying style and technology, today launched collections that go around the world and the network, through online sales and reports of fashion-blogger . Jackets equuipped "high speed" patented to allow the opening of a pocket or the release of a cap. Trousers made of virtually indestructible materials, cut loose and comfortable. Bags, backpacks and accessories, which were predicted to contain a worker's lunch to be consumed in the few minutes of rest or wipes to freshen up if it is granted to use the bathroom. The company
English Casely Hayford instead based his philosophy on the figure of the artisan, whose costume is a bit influenced 'by the English traditional tailoring and a bit' by the British anarchy. Autonomous and loosely dandy, this craftsman wearing asymmetrical wool coats, gray, khaki and waterproof boots laced to 12 holes. "Fashion is usually obsessed with eternal youth, but now is giving way to the idea of \u200b\u200ba sort of permanence and consistency," says founder Joe Casely-Hayford.
also Laboreur, a French brand, produces real work clothes. The reworking of fashion, they become almost cult objects as emblems of trades of great strength and dignity, as the carpenter or stone-cutter, and provincial or regional traditions.
The haute couture of workwear is well represented by British designer Margaret Howell, according to which "The work clothes are clothes that have a purpose." Howell offers for next summer striped shirts, jackets, twill, indigo, cotton pants and heavy jackets closed by frogs.
In the film "Modern Times" by Charlie Chaplin (1936), the worker Charlot wearing blue overalls and a white T-shirt, by dint of always doing the same movements, it becomes a crazed robot, so as to cause repetitive and inappropriate with its movements of the comic effect, the laughter of the spectators. We do not live more certain at the time of factory worker Charlot, yet the fashion to which the "Financial Times" recently used the phrase "New Labour" would seem to bring us back there, between the blue-collar, wrenches and gear where Charlot alienated. Perhaps the fashion can sometimes better than theory, to reveal that the current "post-Fordism", that means technology, flexibility and relocation, back to the alienation of time and bodies, even when a wrench the worker has in his hands, but a computerized console. It is from That's where the protagonist has to return the dignity of work, not just fashion but to ensure this.
August Sander: "Men of the twentieth century"
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